Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is a city open to the sea and carefully planned with 18th-century elegance. Its founder is said to be the legendary Ulysses, but the theory of an original Phoenician settlement is probably more realistic. Known in Portugal as Lisboa, the city was inhabited by the Romans, Visigoths and, beginning in the 8th century, the Moors. Much of the 16th century was a period of great prosperity and overseas expansion for Portugal. Tragedy struck on All Saints’ Day in 1755 with a devastating earthquake that killed about 40,000 people. The destruction of Lisbon shocked the continent. As a result, the Baixa (lower city) emerged in a single phase of building, carried out in less than a decade by the royal minister, the Marques de Pombal. His carefully planned layout of a perfect neo-classical grid survived to this day and remains the heart of the city. Evidence of pre-quake Lisbon can still be seen in the Belém suburb and the old Moorish section of the Alfama that sprawls below the Castle of St. George. Lisbon is a compact city on the banks of the Tagus River. Visitors find it easy to get around as many places of interest are in the vicinity of the central downtown area. There is a convenient bus and tram system and taxis are plentiful. Rossio Square, the heart of Lisbon since medieval times, is an ideal place to start exploring. After a fire destroyed parts of the historic neighborhood behind Rossio in 1988, many of the restored buildings emerged with modern interiors behind the original façades. The city boasts a good many monuments and museums, such as the Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belém, the Royal Coach Museum and the Gulbenkian Museum. High above the Baixa is the Bairro Alto (upper city) with its teeming nightlife. The easiest way to connect between the two areas is via the public elevator designed by Gustave Eiffel. Cruising up the Tagus River to the ship’s berth, you can already spot three of Lisbon’s famous landmarks: the Monument to the Discoveries, the Tower of Belém and the Statue of Christ, which welcomes visitors from its hilltop location high above Europe’s longest suspension bridge.

More than a hundred watchtowers gaze out across the waves surrounding this ancient Andalusian city. Sprinkled with evocative cobbled side streets, you’ll explore 3,000 years’ worth of history, while stumbling across palm-tree lined plazas of shaded coffee sippers. Cadiz claims the mantle of Western Europe’s oldest city, and every piece of architecture – and every wrong turn – offers a chance to discover fascinating new tales. Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100BC, Christopher Columbus used the city as a base for his exploratory, map-defining voyages of 1493 and 1502. The port grew in importance and wealth as Cadiz’s strategic location close to Africa’s northern tip helped it blossom into a centre for New World trade. Catedral de Cádiz, is a display of the city’s wealth and importance, looming spectacularly over the Atlantic’s waves, with cawing seagulls sweeping between its twin bell towers. Inside, treasures from the city’s trading exploits in the West Indies and beyond – which helped fuel the growth of this historically prosperous city – are on display. Enveloped by ocean on almost every side, Cadiz has something of an island feel, and you can cool off from southern Spain’s unrelenting sunshine on the sweeping golden sand beach of Playa Victoria. The two towers of the new El Puente de la Constitución de 1812 mark a contemporary landmark in this most ancient of cities, in the form of a spectacular new road bridge. Torre Tavira, meanwhile, is the most famous of Cadiz’s army of watchtowers, and the highest point in the city. Reach the top for a view of the ocean fringing the city’s expanse, and to learn about the towers – constructed so trading merchants could survey the harbour from their lavish homes. The Central Market is a chaotic place of bartering, where flashing knives dissect fresh fish. Stop in at the orbiting bars to enjoy tapas, freshly prepared with the market’s produce.

More than a hundred watchtowers gaze out across the waves surrounding this ancient Andalusian city. Sprinkled with evocative cobbled side streets, you’ll explore 3,000 years’ worth of history, while stumbling across palm-tree lined plazas of shaded coffee sippers. Cadiz claims the mantle of Western Europe’s oldest city, and every piece of architecture – and every wrong turn – offers a chance to discover fascinating new tales. Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100BC, Christopher Columbus used the city as a base for his exploratory, map-defining voyages of 1493 and 1502. The port grew in importance and wealth as Cadiz’s strategic location close to Africa’s northern tip helped it blossom into a centre for New World trade. Catedral de Cádiz, is a display of the city’s wealth and importance, looming spectacularly over the Atlantic’s waves, with cawing seagulls sweeping between its twin bell towers. Inside, treasures from the city’s trading exploits in the West Indies and beyond – which helped fuel the growth of this historically prosperous city – are on display. Enveloped by ocean on almost every side, Cadiz has something of an island feel, and you can cool off from southern Spain’s unrelenting sunshine on the sweeping golden sand beach of Playa Victoria. The two towers of the new El Puente de la Constitución de 1812 mark a contemporary landmark in this most ancient of cities, in the form of a spectacular new road bridge. Torre Tavira, meanwhile, is the most famous of Cadiz’s army of watchtowers, and the highest point in the city. Reach the top for a view of the ocean fringing the city’s expanse, and to learn about the towers – constructed so trading merchants could survey the harbour from their lavish homes. The Central Market is a chaotic place of bartering, where flashing knives dissect fresh fish. Stop in at the orbiting bars to enjoy tapas, freshly prepared with the market’s produce.

Algiers is the capital city of Algeria, on the country’s Mediterranean coast. It’s known for the whitewashed buildings of the Kasbah, a medina with steep winding streets, Ottoman palaces and a ruined citadel. The 17th-century Ketchaoua Mosque is flanked by 2 large minarets. The Great Mosque has marble columns and arches. The clifftop Catholic basilica of Notre-Dame d’Afrique features a large silver dome and mosaics.

The serene sea approach to Cagliari is an exquisitely beautiful way to first lay eyes on the city’s mesmerising interplay of colour, spires and domed churches. Sat on Sardinia’s south coast, Cagliari is the island’s largest city, and a sun-blessed escape of beaches, architecture and Mediterranean food – where stress evaporates on contact. That first sight of Cagliari’s mosaic of architecture reveals much about the island’s history, and is a living document of the civilisations and influences that have passed through. Combining Byzantine churches with crumbling Roman ruins and Pisan towers, it’s an elegant, beguiling place to explore. Usher in the morning with a short, sharp espresso hit, before wandering along to San Benedetto market’s bustle, crammed full of overflowing heaps of local produce. Taste crisp, freshly-baked bread, thin shavings of sheep’s cheese, and ripe red strawberries, as you wander amid the market’s melody of good-natured bartering. The Castello quarter’s tight, flower-draped streets and salmon-hued brick buildings incline up above the Med’s softly lapping waves. Climb Bastione di Saint Remy staircase to Terrazza Umberto’s views of the turquoise Gulf of Angels. Next, Cathedral of Santa Maria awaits, with its marbled interiors, elaborate side chapels and intricately decorated crypt. Once you’ve unravelled Cagliari’s historical tapestry, Poetto Beach invites you to find a spot on almost five miles of uninterrupted sand, met by a dazzling expanse of turquoise water. On a hot summer’s day, soak up some sun before saluting the sunset with an ice cold Spritz at a beachside bar. Spaghetti with salted bottarga and artichokes will keep the good times rolling, perfectly accompanied by a glass of ruby-coloured Cannonau wine.

The capital of Sicily is situated on a crescent-shaped bay on the island’s north coast. Once the intellectual capital of southern Europe, Palermo has always been at the crossroads of civilization. Due to its favourable location, Sicily’s most interesting city has attracted almost every people and culture touching the Mediterranean world. Its most unique characteristic is a harmonious blend of Arab-Norman cultures mixed with Byzantine and Jewish elements, which created some unforgettable and resplendent works of art. Phoenician traders first colonized Palermo in the 6th-century BC, but it was the Carthaginians, who built the important fortress here that caught the covetous eye of the Romans. After the first Punic War, the Romans took control of the city in the 3rd-century BC. Following several invasions by the Vandals, Sicily was settled by Arabs, who made the country an emirate and Palermo a showpiece capital that rivalled in splendour both Cordoba and Cairo. The city became a magical place of palaces and mosques, minarets and palm trees. In the 11th-century Palermo was conquered by the Norman ruler, Roger de Hauteville. During the Normans’ hundred-year occupation, the city experienced a remarkable period of enlightenment and a flourishing of the arts. Counting a population of more than 300,000, Palermo became the centre of Norman rule and one of the most important trading centres between East and West. Eventually, Palermo was incorporated into the “Kingdom of the Two Sicilies” under the Swabian ruler Frederick II, known as the Holy Roman Emperor. After the bloody Sicilian Vespers uprising in 1282, the Spanish took control and brought the Inquisition to Palermo. Some historians believe that the nature of the Inquisition helped foster the protective secret societies that eventually evolved into the Mafia. Today, visitors can still experience the legacy of Palermo’s rich past. Great Arab-Norman buildings include the Cappella Palatina, La Martorana, San Giovanni degli Eremiti and, a few miles outside the city, the Cathedral of Monreale. Palermo’s bustling streets and animated markets give the town an Oriental feel. The Quattro Canti, or Four Corners, is the monumental crossroads laid out in 1608-1620 at the central intersection of the four longest and straightest streets of the city. North of Piazza Castelnuovo lie the avenues of the new city. Most sights are scattered along three major streets: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Via Maqueda and Via Roma. A vigorous metropolis with a strong historical profile, Palermo is packed with interesting sights, which make it an enriching and enjoyable place to explore.

The capital of Sicily is situated on a crescent-shaped bay on the island’s north coast. Once the intellectual capital of southern Europe, Palermo has always been at the crossroads of civilization. Due to its favourable location, Sicily’s most interesting city has attracted almost every people and culture touching the Mediterranean world. Its most unique characteristic is a harmonious blend of Arab-Norman cultures mixed with Byzantine and Jewish elements, which created some unforgettable and resplendent works of art. Phoenician traders first colonized Palermo in the 6th-century BC, but it was the Carthaginians, who built the important fortress here that caught the covetous eye of the Romans. After the first Punic War, the Romans took control of the city in the 3rd-century BC. Following several invasions by the Vandals, Sicily was settled by Arabs, who made the country an emirate and Palermo a showpiece capital that rivalled in splendour both Cordoba and Cairo. The city became a magical place of palaces and mosques, minarets and palm trees. In the 11th-century Palermo was conquered by the Norman ruler, Roger de Hauteville. During the Normans’ hundred-year occupation, the city experienced a remarkable period of enlightenment and a flourishing of the arts. Counting a population of more than 300,000, Palermo became the centre of Norman rule and one of the most important trading centres between East and West. Eventually, Palermo was incorporated into the “Kingdom of the Two Sicilies” under the Swabian ruler Frederick II, known as the Holy Roman Emperor. After the bloody Sicilian Vespers uprising in 1282, the Spanish took control and brought the Inquisition to Palermo. Some historians believe that the nature of the Inquisition helped foster the protective secret societies that eventually evolved into the Mafia. Today, visitors can still experience the legacy of Palermo’s rich past. Great Arab-Norman buildings include the Cappella Palatina, La Martorana, San Giovanni degli Eremiti and, a few miles outside the city, the Cathedral of Monreale. Palermo’s bustling streets and animated markets give the town an Oriental feel. The Quattro Canti, or Four Corners, is the monumental crossroads laid out in 1608-1620 at the central intersection of the four longest and straightest streets of the city. North of Piazza Castelnuovo lie the avenues of the new city. Most sights are scattered along three major streets: Corso Vittorio Emanuele, Via Maqueda and Via Roma. A vigorous metropolis with a strong historical profile, Palermo is packed with interesting sights, which make it an enriching and enjoyable place to explore.

Honey-coloured Siracusa is a staggering UNESCO World Heritage Site, and an extraordinary Sicilian city of immense ancient history. The modern population is a fraction of what it was at the city’s heyday around 400 BC, when Athens’ might was successfully challenged and faced down, reinforcing the city’s incredible power and status. Siracusa’s historical nucleus waits to be discovered on the compact islet of Ortygia. The city was founded here, but grew over time, spreading across to the mainland. View less A small channel separates the two, which is now spanned by twin bridges. Wander the atmospheric streets of this time warp, to reach the shining elegance of Piazza Duomo. The Baroque cathedral rises like a giant sandcastle, and you can settle opposite to cradle a glass of wine and enjoy the view over the immaculate square – people watching before the glorious baroque façade. Dig deep into its history at the mainland’s archaeological park. Here you can wander between the remains of a Greek theatre, constructed in the 5th century BC, and now used as a grandiose, atmospheric venue for events and performances. You’ll also encounter a Roman Amphitheatre – where gladiators battled brutally, and the spectacular ear-shaped cave, which is famed for its extraordinary, secret-revealing acoustics. It was given its name – the Ear of Dionysius – by Caravaggio. Visit the legendary Fonte Arethusa, or lose yourself in the Ortygia Market – you’ll find everything here, from fresh fish, to spices and local bottles of wines. Look out for a flavour-filled jar of real Sicilian u strattu – an intense tomato paste that is the secret ingredient to many Sicilian recipes. The local ingredients are imbued with flavour by this volcanic land’s fertile soils and the firepower of Europe’s most active volcano Mount Etna, waits just to the north.

Perched high on the imposing Sciberras Peninsula, Valletta immediately presents its massive, protective walls and vertical bastions to visitors arriving by sea. Rising to 47 metres in places, the fortifications protect lavish palaces, grand domes and illustrious gardens. Built by the Knights of St John on the narrow peninsular, Valletta is a compact, richly historical treasure trove of Baroque wonders. Ascend to reach the restful, flower-filled Upper Barrakka Gardens, where cannons fire and boom in salute at noon each day, sending echoing cracks of noise out across the waves below. View less Recognised as 2018’s European Capital of Culture, Valletta is a fascinating and dense haven of history and intrigue. A busy, bustling capital, the breathtaking St John’s Cathedral – commissioned in 1572 – is almost concealed among its narrow streets. The relatively modest exterior is counterpointed by a staggeringly opulent, gold-leaf bathed interior, containing a Caravaggio masterpiece – the shadowy vision of the Beheading of St John. Cinematic and magnificent, Valletta has served as a filming location for Game of Thrones – but real epic history abounds on this rocky isle too. From the prehistoric and megalithic sites of the Hypogeum of Paola and Tarxien, to the fascinating War Museum at Fort St Elmo. Mdina also waits nearby, and the former medieval capital is a striking contrast to the island’s main city. Cars are barred from its streets, and it offers endlessly atmospheric old-time wanders. With a strategic positioning in the Mediterranean, Malta is a jewel that many have wrestled for over the centuries. Independence from Britain was finally achieved in 1964, but the close allegiance remains evident, with English recognised as an official language, cars driving on the left, and red post boxes and telephone gleaming in Malta’s sunshine.

Surrounded by glowing turquoise waters and rugged coastline, Trapani invites you to explore western Sicily’s ruins, intense flavours, and sun-soaked leisure pursuits. Built on salt and tuna exports, Trapani is experiencing a renaissance, having been lovingly spruced up as a sailing capital, and an international airport bringing in visitors from far and wide. The town looks out over the Egadi Islands, gazing west to witness some of Siciliy’s most evocative sunset displays. View less Start exploring Trapani from its historic core, a dense network of alleys hosting a collection of small shops, restaurants and wine bars. You’ll encounter the Cathedral of San Lorenzo – where colourful artworks are spread below sweeping arches and a beautiful domed roof. Sicily feels like an island on the cusp of continents, and Trapani practically has one foot in Africa, as you soak in its pretty whitewash houses and fusion of foods and arts. Discover the Ancient Greek influence by venturing to rich archaeological sites nearby, like Selinus and Segesta, where the treasures from the past have been unearthed and displayed. Pyramids of white salt rise up at the Riserva Naturale Saline di Trapani e Paceco. These salt marshes and windmills are a symbol of Trapani, and although sea salt production is much less important today, the small white hills remain a Trapani landmark. Look out for the pink flamingos wading in the salt pans below. For beach days, the Egadi Islands can be easily reached from Trapani – Favignana is the largest and most popular.

Until the time of the French protectorate, the medina was very much the center of things. Then, under the French influence, the ville nouvelle (new city) emerged with its major banks, department stores and administrative services. The main focus of ville nouvelle is the wide, tree-lined Avenue Habib Bourguiba. At its western end, this major thoroughfare becomes the Avenue de France, terminating in the Place de la Victoire and the entrance to the medina. Although today the medina has lost some of its importance, it is still a place where traditions can be readily observed and where visitors can get a feel for the local way of life. It features many of the city’s points of interest and countless shops.

The Balearics are comprised of 16 islands; the three principal ones are Mallorca, Ibiza and Minorca. Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals and Arabs have invaded these islands over the centuries. Ruins show evidence of the prehistoric Talayot civilization, a megalithic culture that flourished here between 1500 BC and the Roman conquest. Today the islands are besieged by invaders of a different sort – hordes of tourists. Lying 60 miles (97 km) off the Spanish mainland, the islands’ lush and rugged landscape combined with an extremely mild, sunny climate proves irresistible, especially to northern Europeans. As a result, the Balearics boast cosmopolitan resorts with lively nightlife and plenty of sports activities. Mallorca (also spelled Majorca) is the largest of the islands, with an area of more than 1,400 square miles (3626 sq.km). The scenery is magnificent, with cliffs along indented shorelines jutting out of the sea and mountain ranges sheltering the plains from harsh sea breezes. The fertile plain in the centre is covered with almond and fig trees plus olive groves with some trees more than 1,000 years old. Tall pines, junipers and oaks line the mountain slopes. Palma de Mallorca is the capital of the archipelago. A cosmopolitan city with sophisticated shops and restaurants, it also offers buildings of spectacular Moorish and Gothic architecture. In the western part of Mallorca, nestled into the mountains, lies the village of Valldemosa. It is known for its Carthusian Monastery where Frédéric Chopin and George Sand spent the winter of 1838-39.

On the crossroads of mighty cultures, this Murcian port has endless ancient stories to share. A valuable natural harbour attracted many civilisations to this sun-bathed, southeasterly setting – following its foundation by the Carthaginians in 227 BC. Blending the imprints left by countless cultures on this global junction, the presence of everyone from the Vandals to the Phoenicians and Moors can be felt as you explore, walking between ruins and celebrated modernist architecture along Calle Mayor. Cartagena is crowned by the soaring Castillo de la Concepcion – rise to the stout castle aboard a panoramic lift. Inside, look through reams of archaeological treasures, or admire the rolling views down over the port and across the waters. Watch out for the electric blue peacocks who strut flamboyantly. Cartagena’s emergence as a visitor destination coincided with a stunning discovery in 1988 – the bowl of a gloriously preserved Roman Theatre. Enter to sit among the grandiose ancient venue, so evocative, you can’t help but imagine the historic performances that have graced its stage. Wander the breezy waterfront, looking across the narrow strait towards Africa’s distant haze, and spotting gleaming warships. Cartagena’s perfect harbour means it has been one of Spain’s oldest strategic navy positions since the 16th century. Settle to enjoy the joys of tapas in lively bars – sampling crisped paella, squid and honeyed-aubergine. Easter’s Semana Santa festivities are typically lively here, as hooded processions, lavish floats and sombre fiery displays roll through the streets.

Situated on Spain’s Costa del Sol, Malaga is the region’s capital and a popular holiday destination. The city is known as the birthplace of Pablo Picasso and for the sweet Malaga dessert wines that come from the hilly vineyards just outside of town. Other points of interest include impressive Gothic architecture, the remains of a Moorish castle and several interesting museums. A pleasant town to explore, Malaga also serves as a popular starting point for trips to Granada and resorts along the Costa del Sol. Granada and the famed Alhambra are the region’s most outstanding attractions. Here, magnificent Moorish palaces and fortifications contrast sharply with Christian churches from Spain’s significant era of the 1492 Reconquest, in which King Ferdinand put an end to eight centuries of Moorish rule. Other worthwhile destinations from Malaga include such well-known resorts as Marbella and the white village of Mijas, located on the hillside above the coastal towns of Torremolinos and Fuengirola.

Set on the Maghreb coast, Tangier is Africa’s outstretched hand to Europe. With its bustling markets and lively waterfront, this city on Morroco’s north is an energetic and invigorating place and an exciting immersion into an incredible continent. The location, on the highly strategic narrowing of the Strait of Gibraltar, made Tangier a vital Phoenician trading town – and the resulting city is an invigorating mesh of cultures and curiosities. View less Part of the fun of Tangier is the well-rehearsed dance, as you dodge good-natured hawkers, and this is certainly a place to stroll with confidence and purpose. Delve into the mayhem of the walled Medina of Tangier for a rush of stimulation, as bartering and bantering echoes along the tight alleys. Crowded, noisy and busy, you’ll be sold to with a smile as you wander between stands of colourful spices, dried fruits and fabrics in this authentic Moroccan marketplace. Refresh and escape the sun with a fresh orange juice – or a sip of mint tea. Close to the city, you can find the Caves of Hercules, a coastal hollow that opens at both ends. The Phoenicians cut a window in the shape of the African continent, which reveals views of the Atlantic’s waves, and legend says Hercules rested within its confines. From Tangier, you can also venture inland to the Rif Mountains, where gorgeous Chefchaouen – a village of bright blue alleyways – waits. Punctuated by blooming flowers, the entire town is a beautiful, moulded artwork of colour, spilling down the mountain like a waterfall.

Immortal lines from the silver screen may have imprinted a warm, fuzzy visage of old Casablanca into our minds, but this thriving city is a curious example of what Morocco’s modernity looks like. Glistening white art deco buildings line the wide pathways that sweep through Casablanca, as the sea sparkles like a thin mirage on the horizon. There’s an aura of creativity amid Casablanca’s culture and chaos, helping to make the city one of Morocco’s most curious and compelling. The Hassan II Mosque took a staggering seven years and 10,000 artists to craft its legacy as the country’s largest mosque, and to bring the world’s tallest minaret to sky-high reality. A vision of cool to the touch marble, cavernous prayer rooms and intricate inlays, the mosque is extraordinary in scale and ambition. Retractable roofs let the sun flood in, while dizzying glass floors dazzle, and the blue Atlantic waves surge below your feet. After that humbling visit, stroll along La Corniche – where surfers glide across rough and tumble waves, and chic cafes offer front-row seats for sweet peppermint teas with a side of people-watching. Casablanca is a diner’s city – boulevards laced with French-fusion restaurants, buzzy beachfront joints, and raw seafood bars provide gem-like offerings fresh from the boat. Those seeking a slice of that golden-age Hollywood romance can wander through the medina, with its unabashed ramshackle feel, and maze of alleyways punctuated with busy barber shops and butchers.

Gibraltar is the famous promontory located at the western entrance of the Mediterranean, with Spain to the north and, across the Straits, Morocco to the south. The Straits, a channel 36 miles long that connects the Atlantic with the Mediterranean, are 27 miles wide at the west end, 8 miles at their narrowest and 15 miles between Gibraltar and Almina Point near Ceuta. Africa is clearly visible on a fine day. Gibraltar’s airport is known for its unusual runway that bisects the two-mile-long narrow isthmus linking the colony geographically to mainland Spain.

Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is a city open to the sea and carefully planned with 18th-century elegance. Its founder is said to be the legendary Ulysses, but the theory of an original Phoenician settlement is probably more realistic. Known in Portugal as Lisboa, the city was inhabited by the Romans, Visigoths and, beginning in the 8th century, the Moors. Much of the 16th century was a period of great prosperity and overseas expansion for Portugal. Tragedy struck on All Saints’ Day in 1755 with a devastating earthquake that killed about 40,000 people. The destruction of Lisbon shocked the continent. As a result, the Baixa (lower city) emerged in a single phase of building, carried out in less than a decade by the royal minister, the Marques de Pombal. His carefully planned layout of a perfect neo-classical grid survived to this day and remains the heart of the city. Evidence of pre-quake Lisbon can still be seen in the Belém suburb and the old Moorish section of the Alfama that sprawls below the Castle of St. George. Lisbon is a compact city on the banks of the Tagus River. Visitors find it easy to get around as many places of interest are in the vicinity of the central downtown area. There is a convenient bus and tram system and taxis are plentiful. Rossio Square, the heart of Lisbon since medieval times, is an ideal place to start exploring. After a fire destroyed parts of the historic neighborhood behind Rossio in 1988, many of the restored buildings emerged with modern interiors behind the original façades. The city boasts a good many monuments and museums, such as the Jeronimos Monastery, Tower of Belém, the Royal Coach Museum and the Gulbenkian Museum. High above the Baixa is the Bairro Alto (upper city) with its teeming nightlife. The easiest way to connect between the two areas is via the public elevator designed by Gustave Eiffel. Cruising up the Tagus River to the ship’s berth, you can already spot three of Lisbon’s famous landmarks: the Monument to the Discoveries, the Tower of Belém and the Statue of Christ, which welcomes visitors from its hilltop location high above Europe’s longest suspension bridge.